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London Fashion Week 2026 focused on return and renewal as leading British fashion houses presented their spring/summer 2027 collections and designers showcased five major trends for the coming season.
According to the BBC, Alexander McQueen returned to London after 25 years of showing in Paris, while Mulberry staged its first major show in nine years. British Fashion Council chief executive Laura Weir described McQueen’s homecoming as “quite a big deal” for London.
Creative director Seán McGirr’s Alexander McQueen collection drew on the brand’s roots, featuring severe tailoring, lace corsets, devil-horn details and chainmail skull dresses. At Mulberry, Christopher Kane’s debut collection placed the Baywater bag at its centre and featured extensive use of leather in coats, skirts and loafers.
Laura Weir said the British Fashion Council’s main objective was to reposition London Fashion Week as both a home for British design and a driver of creative and commercial growth.
Messy styling replaces quiet luxury
The “messy girl” aesthetic was identified as the leading trend of the season by Elektra Kotsoni, deputy director of Vogue Business and Vogue Runway. Designers including Chopova Lowena, Sinead Gorey and Conner Ives presented deliberately chaotic combinations of undone tailoring, pastel colours, floral prints and textured fabrics.
Kotsoni described the trend as a reaction to the clean-girl and quiet-luxury styles that dominated social media. She said the deliberately disordered approach could be seen as a form of resilience and rebellion in an unsettled world.
Gardening-inspired fashion and modern goddess looks
Gardening-inspired fashion was another prominent theme. Erdem, Yuhan Wang and Bora Aksu used aprons, waterproof materials and trench coats to create looks associated with allotments and outdoor work. The trend follows the recent popularity of cottage-core styles and was also reflected in “Loewe” launching a watering-can-shaped handbag.
Designers also turned to ancient Greek influences and cinematic references for the modern goddess trend. Flowing fabrics, draped garments, ribbons and voluminous silhouettes featured prominently, particularly in Pauline Dujancourt’s collection.
Kotsoni said the trend represented a shift away from the minimalist quiet-luxury style that dominated fashion week attendees’ wardrobes.
Orange and ballet set to dominate
Orange emerged as a leading colour for next year, with shades ranging from melon and tangerine to ginger and coral. “Mulberry”, Justin Cassin, Enny Atelier and Vin + Omi all included orange in their London shows and presentations.
Ballet was also highlighted as a major influence for 2027. Edeline Lee transformed a school sports hall into a stage for a collection inspired by the discipline and physical demands of classical dance, with models walking en pointe.
Kotsoni said ballet flats would remain popular next year, while smaller shoe silhouettes were expected to become more common. She suggested that shoppers seeking the look could explore charity and vintage shops.
